A sliver of a natural state in India's deep south, Kerala is shaped by its layered landscape, almost 600km of glorious Arabian Sea coast and beaches; a languid network of glistening backwaters; and the tea-covered hills of the Western Ghats, and the spice. Just setting foot on this swath of soul-quenching, palm-shaded green will slow your subcontinent progress to a bliss-out amble. Kerala is a world away from the craze of elsewhere, as if India had experimentally the Looking Glass and become an altogether more serene place.

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